Homegrown, Homemade

Jeni’s Splendid Ice Cream Desserts by Jeni Britton Bauer

Columbus’ ice cream ambassador has issued her follow-up to the dairy queen’s James Beard Award-winning Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams at Home. While Britton Bauer is one of the great Columbus, and Ohio, cheerleaders of all times, it is her barefoot youth in Illinois that still lights the way for the 614’s favorite (adopted) daughter:

“My family owned many acres of old growth woodland. In addition to building an authentic tepee and a tiny log cabin worthy of Thoreau, we had honeybees, tapped our maple trees each year, and nurtured at least 10 gardens in the patches where the sunlight broke through the canopy. I would wander for hours as the grownups drank beer and cooked lunch over a large bonfire. We were there weekly in every season, and the scents and flavors from that place are ever-present in my mind and in the ice creams we make.”

Juniper Ice Cream
Makes about 1 quart

2 2/3 cups whole milk
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons cornstarch
2 oz. (4 tablespoons) cream cheese, softened
1/8 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
3/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup light corn syrup
1 to 2 drops juniper essential oil

Mix about 2 tablespoons of the milk with the cornstarch in a small bowl to make a smooth slurry. Whisk the cream cheese and salt in a medium bowl until smooth.

Fill a large bowl with ice and water.

Combine the remaining milk, the cream, sugar, and corn syrup in a four-quart saucepan, bring to a boil over medium-high heat, and boil for four minutes. Remove from the heat and gradually whisk in the cornstarch slurry. Bring the mixture back to a boil over medium-high heat and cook, stirring with a heatproof spatula, until slightly thickened, about one minute. Remove from the heat.

Gradually whisk the hot milk mixture into the cream cheese until smooth. Pour the mixture into a one-gallon Ziploc freezer bag and submerge the sealed bag in the ice bath. Let stand, adding more ice as necessary until cold, about 30 minutes.

Remove the frozen canister from the freezer, assemble your ice cream machine, and turn it on. Pour the ice cream base into the canister and add the juniper oil. Spin until thick and creamy. Pack the ice cream into a storage container. Press a sheet of parchment directly against the surface, and seal with an airtight lid. Freeze in the coldest part of your freezer until firm, at least four hours.

Better Than Vegan by Del Sroufe

Vegan rockstar Del Sroufe follows up Forks Over Knives with Better Than Vegan, a vegan cookbook that also tells the personal story of his journey to wellness. His hometown’s sensibility permeates his story and his recipes: “I grew up in Columbus and have watched it grow into a food town. It used to be that Taco Bell was all there was for Latin fare, and Chinese was the only Asian food you could find. Now you can find Carribbean, Thai, Japanese, and even Vietnamese. I learned my appreciation for international food here, and my appreciation for good vegan food. But being from the Midwest, I also love good comfort food, and you can find it all here.”

Breakfast Burritos
Serves four

This tofu scramble is made with lite firm tofu and then baked instead of fried, so the fat content is greatly reduced.

2 large leeks, white and light-green parts only, diced into half-inch cubes
1 medium red bell pepper, diced into half-inch cubes
1 1/2 cups shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons ground cumin
2 teaspoons ground coriander
Black pepper to taste
2 teaspoons turmeric
2 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce
3 tablespoons nutritional yeast
1 pound lite firm tofu, pressed and mashed to the consistency of ricotta cheese
1/2 cup chopped cilantro
4 whole-wheat tortillas, 10- or 12-inch
1 cup salsa

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Sauté the leeks, red bell pepper, and mushrooms over medium-high heat for 8 to 10 minutes, until the leeks are translucent and tender. Add the garlic, cumin, coriander, pepper, turmeric, soy sauce, and nutritional yeast, and cook over medium-low heat for five minutes. Add the tofu and mix well. Spread the mixture on a large parchment-lined baking sheet and bake for 25 to 30 minutes. Remove the scramble from the oven and stir in the cilantro. To make the burritos, divide the scramble between the four tortillas and spoon some salsa over the filling. Fold the ends of each tortilla over the filling and roll it up.


Back Pages

Cookbooks that are culled from the culinary scene in Columbus run the gamut from our celebrity tastemakers to collections pulled together from neighborhood churches or service organizations. Try a little local flavor by adding this trio to the symphony of cookbooks currently humming on your kitchen counter.

The Art of the Meal: 1,001 Meals
by M. Cameron Mitchell with James A. Bauman
He’s the stadium-filling rockstar of our culinary home team, but before Cameron Mitchell became “Cameron Mitchell,” he put together this sweet little tome in 1998. This little blast from the past can be found haunting the stacks of Half-Price Books or on eBay. Mitchell’s dedication to service details is legendary and comes across in the “Day in the Life Section,” and it includes the menus from then-Mitchell venues Cap City, Martini, and Columbus Brewing Company.

As the Table Turns: Biography of a Bistro
by Sue Doody & Michael J. Rosen
Another atom in the supernova of Columbus’s classic joints is Lindey’s Restaurant & Bar. The German Village anchor goes back to 1981 and not only has served a million meals, but has inspired a million stories. In 2006, owner Sue Doody got together with then-Thurber House literary director, Michael J. Rosen, to put together the funky memoir. The story of Lindey’s is told through recollections of Doody, her family, regulars, and employees. This is a rollicking story that is at times hilarious – especially if you’ve worked in the business – and hunger-inducing. Major benefit of having this on the shelf? The recipe for Lindey’s show-stopping crab cakes.

North Market Cookbook: Recipes and Stories from Columbus, Ohio’s Historic Public Market
by Michael Turback
Out last winter for the pre-holiday rush, the North Market Cookbook blends narrative and functionality in a perfect smoothie of entertainment and how-to. This is a second run at a Market-focused tome; the first one hit the streets in 2008 and was written and compiled by local writer Robin Davis. Beard Award-winning journalist Davis returns to write the foreword for the latest edition, writing a love letter to the deserving food hub. This is a book that is as much fun to peruse as it is to use for menu-planning. Get the backstories of the full-of-heart vendors and enjoy the talents of chefs and mixologists from all over the city as they take Market victuals and turn them into unforgettable plates and quaffs.