Mangia, Mangia!
Family owned eatery serves an authentic taste of Italy
By Amy Fisher |
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Tucked into a little nook in one of the many strip malls off Morse Road, this restaurant is as unassuming as any other shopping-center eatery. In fact, finding some of the best handmade pasta in town seems to be as unlikely as finding a bike lane at the edge of a three-lane thoroughfare - yet there they are.
After pulling up to Geno's, you are compelled to enter, if only to ask, "What exactly is a pepperoni nugget?" Upon entering, you see the large screen television playing soccer, you hear the Chef singing to himself as he rolls out pasta dough. Instantly, you know you are in the right place. His son greets you at the counter while his youngest daughter jumps around in the back.
I imagine heaven isn't far from eating such a meal off picnic table benches with black-and-red plaid plastic tablecloths. This rings particularly true when the food served rivals that of your Italian grandmother's - or more importantly, my Italian grandmother's. The giant television adds to the homey atmosphere, and the walls are adorned with signed autographs from the likes of Rascal Flatts, Rob Thomas, Jessica Simpson, and The Game.
I'll let you in on a couple of secrets - a pepperoni nugget ($5.50) is a miniaturized stromboli, and it is delicious. The pizza crust exterior is firm on the outside, then sweet and soft on the inside, flush with a thick roll of pepperoni and melted provolone. A rich and smooth tomato sauce is served on the side.
The flaming stuffed peppers ($7.95) are an interesting take on a classic. Two large Italian sausages are draped in spicy peppers and baked with provolone on top. The marinara sauce is supple and salty with a nice thickness. Each pasta dish comes with a salad consisting of chopped iceberg lettuce topped with crunchy green peppers, mild onions, and shaved provolone. The house dressing (Italian, of course) is robust and filled with chopped olives and garlic, lending a pleasing texture. The garlic bread is more than ample in size and proportion of garlic and butter.
What really makes my heart flutter, however, is the house-made gnocchi ($8.95). It is much lighter in texture and flavor than most, and definitely some of the freshest. Again, the accompanying marinara sauce is not sweet at all, but rich and full of garlic. With or without meat, the sauce is delicious, but who could pass up the giant and tender meatballs?
And not to skimp on dessert, the carrot cake ($4.95) is rich and moist with a light and buttery cream cheese icing. It would be difficult to think of a homier homemade dish.
The first time I ate at Geno's, the owner, Chef Roz, came out from the back and showed our table his gnocchi roller from Argentina. He told us that there is a special day when "absolutely everybody in Argentina eats gnocchi for good luck." Then he his introduced his youngest daughter, who stopped dancing long enough to glance up at the table before resuming her jig. I studied the eclectic menu as the Chef sat at another table and sang a Motown song softly to himself. The traditional Italian food seemed at home next to the pizza and subs, which gave way to traditional all-American appetizers like chicken wings and nachos. To round out the variety, the menu also includes gyros, empanadas, even a section titled BBQ Time. This place feels like being at the house of a very accommodating American family - and, when you eat their gnocchi, you'll feel very lucky to be invited.
Geno's
1277 Morse Rd.
(614) 447-0875
Originally Published: November 1, 2009
