You say salumi, I say salami
At-home Chef
By Angie Theado |
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Tis the season for all the college kids to move in and football season to start. And what does that mean? I guess it means that you guys would probably like some recipes that involve tailgating. I thought about roasting a hot dog on the engine of a car for ten miles, then sobered up and realized that would not be a good idea for anybody. I started to think about apples and salami. Apple season is just getting started and I love apples, especially with a variety of nice cheeses. And of course who doesn't love that dignified "chub," salami. (Chub, interestingly enough, is the term for a complete salami). Pungent, salty, and as noble in taste as the finest of wine and cheeses, this charcuterie heavyweight always scores with me. Please do not be fooled with the quick-cured highly processed variety. Though enjoyable, there is a full field of regional, rustic salami makers, each with something special of their own. In choosing my chub, I took into consideration its purpose: a basic meat salad. I wanted the quality to be high but not the price. Believe me, I wanted a moldy dried sausage roll (its authentic covering), but I chose the highly respected brand, Columbus Salame, of the vacuum-sealed species; operating out of California, the traditional Italian 'salame' is pretty darn good. You can purchase it at your local box store.
Fonduta is a dish made with cream, eggs, and fontina cheese. It is also called fondue or, in layman's terms, fancy cheese sauce. I enjoy this dish with freshly cut apple slices and toast. You can easily substitute the fontina for another soft cheese, add peppers and onions, and enjoy with tortilla chips for some Mexican flare. Follow your palate and explore.
The following fonduta recipe is a simple technique using a double boiler and a portable heat source. It is easily executed on a tailgate with a camp stove. For the salami panzanella, which can be made in advance and travels easily, you need only a mixing bowl and a knife. Whether you are home or tailgating, this recipe will entertain the belly of any hungry football fan.
Salami Panzanella
1/2 lb chunk Sopressata, cut into 1/2 inch cubes
1/2 lb chunk Genoa salami, cut into 1/2 inch cubes
1/4 lb sliced Spanish chorizo (not to be confused with Mexican chorizo), julienned
1/2 lb Butterkase cheese, cut into 1/2 inch cubes
1 large ripe heirloom tomato, diced and seasoned
1/2 large white onion, sliced very thin
3/4 cup chopped kalamata olives
1 small-to-medium sized loaf of sourdough bread, cut into square piece
A few splashes of a nice red wine vinegar
A few splashes of nice olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
Toss the sourdough squares in olive oil and place on a sheet pan. You can tear the bread into pieces, instead of cutting squares, if you prefer. Bake at 350˚F for about 7 minutes or until crispy and golden. Meanwhile, place all of the other ingredients in a large bowl, excluding the oil and vinegar. When the bread is done add it to the bowl and toss with the oil and vinegar. Season the tomatoes with salt and pepper if needed, keeping in mind the salami and olives add their own salt.
Fonduta
1/2 cup Whole milk
2 Egg yolks
1 Whole egg
2 tbsp. unsalted butter
Apple slices
Toasted and sliced baguettes
1/2 lb Fontina cheese
1/4 lb Brie or any triple cream cheese
Fonduta
Photo: Eric Pacella
In a medium sauce pan, bring 2 cups of water to a boil. Beat the milk, egg, and yolks in a stainless steel bowl. Add the butter and the cheeses to the beaten mixture and place on the sauce pan. Turn the heat to low and stir the mixture constantly with a spatula until it is melted and smooth, about 10 minutes (if it starts to scramble, your heat is too high). Transfer to a warm bowl and serve with apple slices and toasted baguette.
Originally Published: September 1, 2009
