Humble Charm
A new dimension to High Street
By Steve Croyle |
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Photo by Chris Casella Yusef Riazi has always enjoyed dining out. "It really started when I was 18," he said. "I enjoyed the experience of trying new things and I just absorbed all of that information."
Before opening Mouton, Riazi spent years working in the restaurant scene. His stops along the way include heavy hitters in the Columbus culinary landscape like The Refectory, Rigsby's and Marcella's, but one of the most notable assignments sits directly across High Street from his new space: Northstar Cafe.
"I was part of the opening team," Riazi said. "It was an exciting and intense experience."
Northstar was a bold entry into the Columbus Market and so is Mouton. It's not big enough to be a full restaurant, something Riazi sees as an advantage. "We'll always have something new," he said of the need to frequently restock his limited cooler space. "Our regular visitors will be able to have something different every time they come in."
One its second day in business - after a six-day recovery from a busy opening night - Mouton featured Heirloom Berkshire Prosciutto, olives and fresh sourdough bread to go with a carefully selected assortment of wines. As a sommelier, Riazi knows a thing or two about wines and is able to draw upon his experience to select a few outstanding bottles that will pair with the food he has on hand.
The space is rather austere; while small, it doesn't feel cramped. It's casual but still very high on class. It's the kind of place you'd find off the tourist-beaten tracks in Paris . . . a hangout where the locals sip espresso and nosh on simple fare.
Cafe Brioso supplies the coffee, a Milano roast, and Riazi vows that his hours (4 p.m. - close, Thursday though Saturday) will increase once his barista gets back from vacation. Riazi is committed to sourcing the vast majority of his stock from local suppliers. Even though things are rather spartan now, he anticipates a much more ambitious selection as Mouton evolves.
"Be patient with us," he said when I asked what message he has for his customers. "This is a work in progress."
On of the most intriguing things about Mouton is a selection of vintage cocktails. These are old school drinks that make you think of Sammy Davis Jr. and Dean Martin. The Mouton twist? High-quality hooch. My Manhattan was prepared with Bulleit Bourbon. "I love Bulleit," Riazi confessed.
Tito's Vodka provides the backbone for most of the drinks on the menu and there are also a few cognac-based cocktails that feature Hennessey VSOP, the quintessential choice for a proper nightcap.
"I see this as a place where people can start or end their evening," Riazi said.
Originally Published: July 1, 2010
