Big Flavor, Little Palace
The downtown diner that will win your heart
By Amy Fisher |
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Photo by Chris Casella Restaurant relationships are complicated. Some are good for feeling fancy. Some are useful when you want it cheap and dirty. Some restaurants, however, are for keeps. The Little Palace and I only just met, but it has potential for a long-term relationship. Surface level observations put a few checks into the plus column. It has a laid back charm with good beer, stiff affordable drinks and an emphasis on quality meat. Couple this with a late night kitchen, and I may fall squarely into the smitten category.
Unlike the current trend of dressing up poor man's food, the menu at little palace undresses some elegant preparations. A fine example of this is the Chopped Caesar salad ($6). Vibrant green pieces of romaine are tossed in a quality Caesar dressing with crunchy croutons and a thick slab of house-cured bacon - a fairly swanky dish, even in the absence of whole anchovies. What's interesting is the addition of pizza house shaker Parmesan that gives the dish a homier edge.
In the same vein is the adorable Meatball Mini ($2.50) - a sizeable meatball squished between a slider-sized bun. The texture of the meatball is magical. It somehow is simultaneously firm enough to hold itself together as a sandwich and soft enough to melt in your mouth. All together, the sandwich is a perfect fistful to pair with a pint full of Troegs Hopback Amber Ale ($4.50).
A bit more substantial in size are the pizzas. The Soppressata Picante ($12) is an outstanding member of the cast. The mozzarella di bufala adds a bit of swank as it melts perfectly into the crispy crust. Topped with spicy soppressata, thin slices of garlic, and fresh hot peppers this dish will set your taste buds ablaze at any time of day.
Tie in some quirky sides like the Roasted Brussels Sprouts ($4) and the House Cooked Bacon ($3) - just a plate of thick-cut bacon - and you should find something for every mood. (If you haven't revisited those tiny cabbage bites since childhood, this preparation would be a good start. I recommend adding a few shakes of chili flakes. For the bacon, well, you know what to do.)
It's not surprising that the owners of Club 185 and former owners of Press Grill have created another diverse little eatery that is unique enough to fill yet another niche in the late night bite market. Whether you have a full on hunger or just need something to counteract all of the drinks you've been swilling, there's something on the menu for you.
Little Palace
240 S Fourth St.
(614) 460-8888
Originally Published: July 1, 2010
