Your hometown beer
By Steve Croyle |
|
Every great city seems to have a signature beer. Some (Iron City) leave a bad taste in your mouth; others are pure joy to imbibe. Columbus is lucky, and pretty soon the rest of Ohio might be in on our little secret.
Columbus Brewing Company has been around since 1988, qualifying it as a venerable old horse in the craft brew market. CBC has seen a number of changes over the years, but the core products have remained largely unaltered. Back in 2005, brewmaster Eric Bean bought a major interest in the brewery. As an operating partner, Bean focuses on beer, bringing a wealth of knowledge gained over the years at a number of craft brewing operations around the country.
"I basically walked into a brewery and asked for a job," Bean said of his humble beginnings.
It's a tough job. Bean is quick to point out that many colleges that offer brewing courses don't do a good job of conveying the reality of the business. Long hours that include weekends, evenings and holidays combined with tasks worthy of a segment on Dirty Jobs quickly send many aspiring brewers scurrying for the nine to five rat race. It's the kind of job that you had better love, because it's not one that will have you ordering a yacht from richoldman.com anytime soon.
Under the current arrangement, Bean is better positioned than some of the previous brewmasters at CBC. The restaurant is owned and operated by a different partnership so commanding the brewing operation is Bean's sole responsibility. There's synergy between the two, but nobody is overextended. That translates to better food on the restaurant side, which aspires to offer more refined dishes than standard pub grub, and better beer from the brewery.
Inside the Columbus Brewing Company
Photo: Christopher Atwood
"I haven't made any significant changes to the standard recipes," Bean said. "I just make sure that we're concentrating on the quality of the beer. Columbus is really starting to appreciate craft beer and you can't get away with cutting corners. Creativity and quality are important."
That commitment to quality has Bean hesitant to expand. "We're actually falling a little short of meeting local demand," he admits as we discuss CBC's 40 percent increase in sales, "but I want to make sure that the increase is real before we invest in expansion."
Bean plans on taking CBC statewide. In recent years, he has been able to get his beers on tap at a number of bars and restaurants in the Columbus area, which is increasing CBC's profile. His beers are also readily available in local stores that aspire to offer a better selection of beer. They just don't stay on the shelf for long.
"I don't like to check my voicemail," Bean confessed. "I've got calls from my reps and distributors demanding more."
But expansion is an inevitable necessity. CBC will crank out 3,000 barrels this year and it's a scramble to keep up - the bottling line only handles four bottles at a time. It's just a matter of crunching numbers and possibly reformulating a recipe or two to accommodate the increase in volume. "The IPA uses all Simcoe Hops [a popular variety that is in short supply], so we'll have to find a way to make that work," Bean noted. "But we can do that."
Of course the best reason for expanding might be a selfish one. "I'd have more time to work on fun beers," he said.
One of his recent creations, available right now, is an unfiltered blond ale, dubbed Summer Teeth. It's a smooth beer that pours somewhat hazy, but the crisp, bright flavor is a perfect fit for those hot humid days we have coming our way. Summer Teeth is on tap at the pub, and a truckload of bottles is in the brewery's cooler, waiting for marching orders. Don't be shy about asking your favorite beer monger if they can score some for you.
I also sampled CBC's IPA, which, like any good IPA, is actually a different beer from the flagship pale ale. This is one that features those expensive Simcoe hops; it's nice and piney, with a tart citrusy bite. The IPA moves pretty quickly, but Eric's been bottling it since November and doesn't plan on cutting us off anytime soon. If you can't find it, ask somebody to hold a sixer of it, or just head on down to Columbus Brewing Company and get a jug or two.
Columbus Brewing Company
525 Short St.
(614) 464-BREW
www.columbusbrewingco.com
Originally Published: July 1, 2009
