Lunch At Lindey's
By Angie Theado |
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Cobblestone walkways and streets lined with 19th-century European architecture rest alongside some great 21st-century dining establishments, like the delicious Lindey's Restaurant and Bar.
As I walked toward the southwest corner of East Beck Street and Mohawk Street, I squinted a little and tried to imagine this street 100 years ago, when the only cars were brand new Model T Fords, and carriages ruled the cobbles.
Passing through Lindey's corridor and into the dining room, one finds a timeless sense of welcoming comfort and elegance. Smiles are shared by the amiable staff. The interior appears pleasantly mature, furnished with ornate fixtures, well-aged wood panel floors, and beautifully detailed tin ceiling panels showing few signs of age. Three decades of serving Columbus while keeping its authentic class and cuisine, and still going strong, Lindey's is a perpetual stalwart on Columbus' top ten lists. The food has simply never faltered.
Seated at a white-clothed table, I was introduced to a friendly server. When asked if Lindey's served sweet tea, she offered to sweeten a batch for me. How could I say no?
Lindey's exterior in German Village
Photo: Christopher Atwood
I began my meal with the chopped salad ($5.50). Crisp romaine lettuce, an assortment of vegetables, applewood smoked bacon, and egg arrived tossed in a lemon vinaigrette and finished with crispy fried onions. This fresh pile of flavorful flora sang green notes of summer, and was large enough to share.
Looking over the lunch menu, I nearly ordered the eggs benedict ($9) with Canadian bacon, but my heart was set on the bistro burger ($10.50). The 8-ounce Black Angus burger was piled with grilled red onion, tomato, iceberg lettuce, white cheddar cheese, and bacon nestled in a brioche bun, skewered with a Spanish olive and served with golden frites. The beef patty was perfectly grilled and seasoned. It moistened the light, buttery yeast bun with its natural drippings, and benefitted from Dijon mustard and mayonnaise. The French fries were worth searching out. With the starch removed from the potatoes, they were fried golden and crisp, shaming the brown and limp variety. Nothing in this world can fill me with vim and vigor like a really good burger and fries: at Lindey's, a simple favorite was elevated to the sublime.
Finally, I ordered the key lime pie ($6) with vanilla whipped cream and a lime wedge. The custard was light, with ideally balanced tartness of lime and sweetness of sugar, with a solid rim of crust.
With a to-go box heavy enough for the night's dinner, I realized I did not need to order the salad or the pie. They were strictly indulgences. The caliber of the food increases the value per dollar even further.
Lindey's sits perfectly in the midst of this beautiful district, serving high-quality bistro fare. This petite eatery offers an experience crafted with attention to detail and flavor, with a menu modest in range but pointed in its quality.
Lindey's
169 E Beck St.
(614) 228-4343
www.lindeys.com
Originally Published: July 1, 2009
