Local Vintage
By Adam Scoppa |
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With over four decades of hands-on winemaking experience, Markko Vineyard's Arnie Esterer could be an imposing, no-nonsense elitist when it comes to his favorite beverage. Instead, he's an amiable gentleman unable to suppress a tone of wonder in his voice when discussing his lifelong passion.
The 77-year-old is also a true craftsman, and sticking to his succinct philosophy "The wine speaks for itself," he has made Markko one of Ohio's finest and most respected wine producers. What else would you expect from a man whose very last name recalls the term for a byproduct of fermentation?
"We consider wine a food," Esterer told me, chuckling, when I called him at his 14-acre Conneaut vineyard. He has been constantly involved with Markko since its inception in 1968, never wavering in his sturdy ideals of wine's import as a life-enriching commodity.
Throughout 41 years, his enthusiasm for the intricacies of the winemaking process has not waned.
"As a winemaker, you come to that fork in the road two thousand times," he explained. "It can take you almost anywhere."
A farmer as legitimate as the dirt under his fingernails, Esterer relishes each season for its new set of challenges and responsibilities. This patient, thoughtful approach has yielded some unique wines, which he will bring in person for your sampling at the North Market's 8th annual Food and Ohio Wine Festival.
Esterer and his crew have traveled to Columbus every summer for the last 8 years, and its patrons have consistently made a positive impression on him. "Columbus is a great wine town," he said, applauding our city for its "knowledge and breadth of appreciation."
Along with Markko, 17 other Buckeye wineries will set up shop outside the Market on Friday, July 10th, and the tents won't come down until Sunday evening.
"It gives local wineries a chance to show off," said North Market manager Dave Weible of the popular event, which last year drew over 10,000 people over the course of the weekend.
Just as the market draws inspiration from locally produced foods, Weible explained, the festival strives to create awareness of Ohio wines for those unfamiliar with them. Many are unaware we have any at all. We now have over 100 - this year's participants represent less than a fifth of the Ohioans who make wine their business. Some, like Markko, are stalwarts of the scene, while others are younger enteentrepreneurs carving out their own niche. The winemakers themselves will be on hand at the festival, answering questions and offering up dozens of varietals by the glass, bottle or case. Friday evening is a late-night preview of the events, with more formal opportunities for interaction with the winemakers. As thirsty enthusiasts converge, Saturday and Sunday promise to be a dense and jovial celebration of the vine. To borrow another one of Arnie Esterer's philosophies, take up thy glass, and "gladden thy heart."
North Market
Food and Ohio Wine Festival
59 Spruce St.
www.northmarket.com
July 10th, 7 p.m. to 10 p.m. - $20 adm
11th, noon to 7 p.m. - $5 adm
12th 1 p.m. to 6 p.m. - $5 adm
Originally Published: July 1, 2009
