Best $10, $20, & $30 meals to be had in Columbus
By Amy Fisher |
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$10
Lac Viet Market
North Market
59 Spruce St.
(614) 221-0777
www.northmarket.com
Photo: Christopher Atwood
Lac Viet Market occupies a simple, unassuming corner of the North Market. This cash-only operation is friendly and fast, and churns out a number of simple dishes with aplomb. The pork spring rolls ($3) are packed with meat and veggies, served with a not-too-sweet sauce. A personal favorite is the broken rice and rice noodle chicken dish ($6). The griddle-charred chicken adds flavor and depth to the rice and noodles. A small heap of greens, cucumber, tomato, and cilantro occupy one side of the dish, and are great for diminishing the effects of the peppers. Another side of the dish is dedicated to the crunchy pickled sprouts and carrots. If you take a little pleasure from pain, a number of wonderful hot sauces are offered on the side. Try the house-made chili sauce. The red bottle is labeled "hot" and, like the snake oil of times past, it'll cure what ails ya.
$20
Panda Inn
1446 Bethel Rd.
(614) 459-2229
Photo: Christopher Atwood
We all have our favorite Chinese takeout dishes. Knowing that the 'Chinese' food I grew up with was a bastardized version of the cuisine makes it a bit of a guilty pleasure. I find that it is best to indulge in such guilty pleasures under the cover of darkness. Panda Inn on Bethel Road has a kitchen open till 2 a.m. to satisfy those late night cravings. Also, like many Asian restaurants, Panda Inn has two menus - one is to fulfill most people's expectations for regular Chinese food; the other is a secret menu with more traditional dishes. Fortunately, Panda Inn prints both menus in English. I drove up late one night to try my own Asian 'fourth meal.'
I ordered the crab rangoon ($3.95), an object of my childhood affection. At two in the morning, the fried pastry, filled with cream cheese and crab, felt a bit less wrong and tasted a bit better. The spicy conch salad ($6.95) was an unfamiliar dish from the authentic menu. The thinly sliced bivalve, soft and mild, was simply dressed with chili flakes, cilantro, and vinegar. My main course was very familiar, sweet and extra-spicy General Tso's Chicken ($9.95), served in a Chinese take-out container, just like mom used to make. A bottle of High Life complimented my little paper boxes perfectly. This meal reminded me that I shouldn't be such a snob. If it tastes good, why not eat it?
$30
Kooma
37 Vine St.
(614) 224-3239
Photo: Christopher Atwood
Tucked away in the Arena District, against a soft backdrop of purples and greens, Kooma serves up an afternoon delight. A few friends and I sat down with some hot sake on a quiet weekday. Every roll we ordered was above average and incredibly fresh, on a Monday* no less. The white tuna sashimi ($2.50) was rich with natural oil, and the fleshy, tender fish was best undressed. The fresh mint and plum paste Ume Shiso roll ($4) was light on the palate and would be a great accompaniment to any assortment of rolls. The Futomaki ($5.50), which means fat roll, arrived filled with crunchy radish, asparagus, cucumber, and avocado. It barely fit in the mouth. The sauce for the spicy tuna roll ($5.50) was light enough to add exactly the right heat accent. Each roll showcased the fresh ingredients without compromising their subtle flavors, and the pickled ginger and wasabi were of a higher-than-usual quality and refreshingly potent.
*In the Midwest, fish is often delivered on Thursdays, making dining early in the week dicey. These days, however, many restaurants receive more than one delivery a week, and shipping methods are also improving.
Originally Published: May 1, 2009
