Authentic gastro-art captures Japanese spirit
By Angie Theado |
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The soul of Dublin's amazing Japanese restaurant, Kihachi, lies in just how closely tied it is to the island nation of Japan. Burdened by scant land resources, Japan learned to take nourishment primarily from the sea, emphasizing quality over quantity. Stimulating color, masterful technique, and meticulous arrangement enhance the at-once exotic and familiar tastes and textures of this gastronomic art form.
A plate at Kihachi in Dublin
Photo: Christopher Atwood
Modest and clean in design, Kihachi could easily reside in Tokyo, with tatami rooms, shoji screens, and the chef/owner Ryuji Kimura's hand written Japanese specials completing the atmosphere. Refined yet natural, and expertly prepared, the refreshing taste and aroma proved an unexpected, formative culinary experience, providing new wonder for this calloused culinary explorer.
After presenting hot, moistened towels, our gracious hostess asks if we care for warm sake. Clean and clear, its aromatic note is met with the right amount of alcoholic nip to relax cares and awaken the appetite. Our inexperience with the extensive menu is redressed by our server's patient explanations. Seeking immersion, we order a few of the chef's special offerings, along with a collection of small dishes from the menu.
A buttery symmetry of ferment and tang, the soft, julienned geoduck (a large saltwater calm, pronounced 'gooey duck') is presented in its shell with miso, rice vinegar, and scallions. Matchsticks of sea cucumber marinated in green tea are served to us in a crystal bowl. Garnished with scallions and immersed in soy sauce and rice vinegar, the foreign texture of the slippery and chewy sea cucumber is an unfamiliar delight on our western palates. Grilled shiitake mushrooms and soy sauce, roasted gingko nuts on sea salt, large soft shell crabs, saga tofu with grated daikon and nameko mushrooms - everything follows the pattern of compositionally precise and exquisitely flavorful offerings.
Even these are surpassed by what is to come. The sea bream sashimi and barbeque eel exhibited depths of technique and craft. The sea bream rests on peppered rice with petite Thai basil under a translucent rice paper cap, showcasing the flesh of the fish and fresh baby leaves. Lime slices separate each bite, lending visual appeal. A citrus soy vinegar, known as ponzu, adds a nice, salty counterpoint. A standout among a flawless meal, the eel highlights the night with its tender oily flesh in an Asian barbeque glaze. Served alongside silver ear mushrooms, cucumber, rice, and real, fresh wasabi, or 'mountain hollyhock,' the rich flavor nearly overwhelms our senses, and the eel melts on the tongue, eliciting involuntary moans of satisfaction from each diner at the table. To close, our server steers us politely to a dessert of poached Asian pear in fresh orange-cinnamon simple syrup; accompanied by reconstituted apricots and a fresh blackberry with mint, it cleanses the palate and refreshes the soul.
Kihachi has taught me that authentic passion will always translate better than attempts at widespread acceptance. Regarded by many to be the finest restaurant in Columbus, I found myself moved by this meal in ways I had not felt in some time. My regards to the chef - it was my pleasure to sample your artistry. I cannot recommend this establishment highly enough.
Originally Published: May 1, 2009
