First Taste: Barrio
Classic Spain meets sexy South American fare in Downtown's new tapas lounge
By Angie Theado |
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The huge slab bar, equally massive oak table, and ceiling of recycled pallet slats provide a foothold for the abundance of natural light. Crystal glasses brim with delicious Spanish wine and modern jazz fills the air. The building, formerly occupied by fast-food chain, Wendy's, has been up-cycled to the new sister of Due Amici, Barrio, where distinctly refreshing tapas are offered in the rustic atmosphere of the interior.
El pulpito a la parrilla (grilled octopus)
Photo: Christopher Atwood
The menu is fundamentally Spanish-European, although heavily influenced by South American flavors; paprika meets cilantro in this synthesis of Old and New World Latin cuisine.
Executive Chef Bradley Balch seemed to make few distinctions between Latin cultures; he sees common threads linking all of them.
El pulpito a la parrilla (grilled octopus) is a perfect example of the conjoined cuisines. Common in the Catalan style, octopus is paired here with mango and jicama, both South American flora, which add a sweetness that counterpoints the tender, smoky mollusk. The quinoa with romesco is light but satisfying, with the earthy quality giving substance to the tang of the sauce. Puffed empanadas are filled with Argentinean flavors of the deep, deep South.
Chris Crader, general manager, functions as a field sommelier as well, pairing the food offerings with Iberian, South American, and Californian products. They're available by the bottle, full glass, or half glass, allowing one to pair up wine with the small plates at will.
Inside Barrio
Photo: Christopher Atwood
"Design around people's expectations," Crader told us, and that is what he's done. The Grenache Noir, paired with octopus, was my favorite at $5 a glass. With dark blackberry undertones, it carried a dry note that steered it clear of cloying. The Priorat is $15 a glass, but delivers fully with its bold body and soft tannic finish, and stands up well to the baked empanada. The Cava, a Spanish sparkling wine, is refreshing and weightless on the tongue; it paired nicely with the quinoa, leavening its grainy heft.
Barrio is open for brunch, lunch, and dinner, seven days a week. For convenience, reservations can be made via their website. Barrio is the Spanish word for neighborhood, so gather here with a group of friends, family, or colleagues, to have some wine and indulge, not only in the artistry of the food, but also in the very act of sharing of your plate.
Originally Published: April 1, 2009
