Alt-barbecue
At-home Chef
By Angie Theado |
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With its rustic, nearly barbaric nature, the myths, legends, and secret techniques of the cult of barbecue have never failed to intrigue me. A beloved culinary necessity in Texas, Kansas City, Memphis, and the Carolinas, in Columbus it is more of a social celebration, with meat, drinks, and most importantly fire.
Smoking is a traditional method of barbecue, and complementary to the flavor palate I was trying to reach: that of a woodland pioneer's feast. The wheat berry and cherry stuffing counterbalances the savory, smoky bird, and helps maintain its moisture. Brining before smoking will elevate the natural flavor while tenderizing the meat and infusing it with the essence of the spices.
Rest assured, the brine and stuffing are easily executed a day in advance, preventing time constraints and mental breakdowns.
I traveled to the North Market (59 Spruce St.) to see what was in season and available. With my heart set on pheasant, it was unfortunate to discover that it was frozen and would have no time to thaw, but the three young Cornish hens were alluring and fresh, a delicious and exciting substitute. I purchased my three prizes ($26.63) and started off to the produce stand.
Gazing at the leafy greens, the spinach caught my eye. I eagerly picked it up for examination: packaged like a gift from a proud horticulturist and without any sign of wilt. The dark young leaves looked fresh and healthy.
After exploring the dried spices and honey racks for a little inspiration, I departed with the spinach, a bag of dried cherries, and a bag of jumbo raisins clutched in my hands - everything was coming together ($10). I then headed to the Clintonville Market for the stuffing; bread crumbs are boring, and I had seem some interesting possibilities there before. (200 Crestview Rd.). There I rediscovered the wheat berries ($.69/lb) I noticed a while back, a perfect base for the stuffing. Those and a few simple herbs later, and we were ready to smoke.
For the stuffing:
1 cup soft wheat berries
3 cups chicken stock or water with a pinch or two of salt
10 oz. fresh spinach (blanched, rinsed)
3/4 cup dried cherries (reconstituted in warm water)
1/2 cup jumbo raisins (reconstituted in warm water)
1/2 cup unsalted toasted almonds (roughly chopped)
2 medium sized shallots (peeled and chopped)
2 tbsp. fresh thyme (leaves picked and finely chopped)
2 tsp. orange zest
1/4 cup olive oil
A few splashes of red wine vinegar to taste (cherry vinegar would be nice)
Salt and pepper to taste
Combine the wheat berries and chicken stock in a medium sauce pot and bring to a boil. Turn down the heat and simmer for about an hour until the berries are chewy and swollen. You might need to add more water during the cooking process to prevent scorching, as they absorb a lot of liquid. Drain excess liquid and set aside. (Soaking overnight will reduce the cooking time greatly.) Saute the shallots and thyme in a splash of oil until translucent and add them to the wheat berries. Blanch the spinach in salted boiling water for 1 to 2 minutes, then rinse under running cold water. Place it in a clean dishtowel and ring it until it is relatively dry, then chop. Frozen spinach works just fine; however, when it thaws you should still ring it dry. Finally, add the rest of the ingredients and mix well.
TIP: Add aromatics to the wood chips, like fresh herbs, fruit peels, or a cinnamon stick. You can also add vinegar or soda (e.g. root beer) to the soaking wood chips for a unique flavor.
Photo: David S. Lewis
For the Brine:
1 gallon water
1 cup salt (any coarse salt, e.g. kosher or pickling salt)
3 tbsp. brown sugar
2/3 cup white vinegar
3 bay leaves
4 cardamom pods (cracked)
1 stick of cinnamon
2 tbsp. coriander seeds
1 nub of fresh ginger (sliced and peeled)
1 tbsp. mustard seeds
1 tbsp. cumin seeds
1 tbsp. black peppercorns
Add all ingredients in a large saucepot and bring to a boil; then cool in the fridge to 38˚F.
And all the rest:
3 one-to-two lb. young Cornish hens
1 smoker
1 bag charcoal
Lighter fluid, as needed
1 small bag of wood chips of your choice, e.g. apple wood, hickory, or even corncob
Butchers twine, 24 inches for each hen
Matches
Did you know: the word "buccaneer," usually associated with Caribbean piracy, actually comes from the French "boucanier," meaning "one who smokes meat."
Photo: David S. Lewis
Place the hens in the cooled brine and refrigerate for approximately an hour per pound. After a thorough rinsing, let them sit in the fridge on a dry clean towel for another hour before smoking, so the skin dries slightly. (This gives the meat has one last chance to absorb all the gusto it can from the tasty skin.) While you wait, get the smoker fire going and soak your wood chips in water for about 20 minutes. Add aromatics, like a sprig of sage, as this will deepen the character. Stuff the cavity with the wheat berry stuffing and truss the small little birds with the twine. (See Trussing Guide)
Once your coals are nice and hot, put the drained wood chips and aromatics in foil and seal. Poke holes in the aluminum package and place it on top of the coals. Temperature is very important when smoking: 150˚F- 165˚F is the ideal temperature you want to maintain. When the temperature of the smoker is ideal, place your three little hens on the grate and cover. Now relax and enjoy your company. (Badminton, anyone?)
One hour per pound for the smoking, and beware your own curiosity: lifting the lid during the cooking process releases the heat and smoke. Keep a thermometer handy and smoke until they reach 145˚F when pierced in the thickest part of the thigh. At last, let the birds rest for 5-7 minutes and enjoy. This will feed 5 to 6.
Originally Published: June 1, 2009
