Scallops Made Simple
At-Home Chef
By Eric Pacella |
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This month, (614) brings you a few tasty dishes from Zach Salapack of Crooked Birdhouse Farms. The beet salad offers an interpretation of the winter's best vegetable, balanced nicely by toasted walnuts. The scallop dish, accompanied by a creamy vichyssoise, will be easy once you read Salapack's guide to the perfect scallop. Round out your meal with the Vanilla Panna Cotta, the true genius of which lies in its intensely flavorful apple cider reduction, a wonderful blend of sweet and savory.
Zach Salapack is a former restaurant chef with 10 years of experience who decided to leave the kitchen, start a catering business, grow his own food, and raise a family. His catering ranges from gourmet French cuisine to down-home barbecue, slow cooked in his portable smoker-trailer. Salapack is interested in farm-to-table agriculture, running a produce stand in the summer that sells both his own produce and that grown by local farmers participating in Community Supported Agriculture.
Photo: Chris Casella
On Perfect Scallops
Scallops can be fickle. Cooked properly, they have a slightly firm texture, but with plenty of give to the bite. If they turn on you, however, you'll be left with a rubbery mess.
Chef Salapack says the key to perfect scallops starts with the pan.
"Start with your pan hot. A heavy gauge pan conducts the heat better; gives you better scallops," he said. But the secret is resetting the scallops. About 30 seconds after you place them in the pan, use tongs or a spatula to break them loose, and rub them around in the butter or oil, leaving them on the same side. Put a bit of unsalted butter in the center of the clustered scallops. This simple step will help the scallops to cook evenly. Also, the best scallops are cooked predominantly on one side, basting them in the hot oil or butter, using a spoon. Saute them lightly on the other side, and let them rest on a paper towel. This will prevent excess moisture from seeping out on the plate.
Caramelized Sea Scallops with Truffled Vichyssoise
Photo: Chris Casella
Caramelized Sea Scallops with Truffled Vichyssoise
Ingredients
5-6 large (U10) scallops
1 lb baby spinach
Clarified butter or canola oil
1 tbs unsalted butter, cold
1 large leek
1 small white onion, chopped
1 small baking potato, peeled and sliced
1 small garlic clove, crushed
1 cup chicken broth
1 cup heavy cream
Kosher salt
Place all ingredients except scallops, spinach, and butter or canola oil in a small sauce pan. Cover and lightly simmer for 15 minutes, until vegetables are soft. Place in a blender and blend until smooth, being careful not to over-blend, which would yield a pasty texture. Season to taste with about 1 teaspoon kosher salt. Be sure to cover blender with a towel when blending hot ingredients. Heat a heavy gauge skillet (cast-iron is best) over medium-high heat. Lightly coat the bottom of the skillet with clarified butter, or if unavailable, canola oil. Place scallops into pan when small wisps of smoke begin to come from the butter or oil. Saute for 1 minute, add unsalted butter, and reset scallops in pan. Saute for another minute or two, until golden brown. Flip scallops, saute for 30 seconds, and set aside on paper towel to rest for 1-2 minutes. Place spinach in saute pan and wilt for 30 seconds. Place spinach in center of plate, surround with vichyssoise, and drizzle lightly with truffle oil. Place scallops on sauce and serve.
Vanilla Panna Cotta with Preserved Apples
Photo: Chris Casella
Vanilla Panna Cotta with Preserved Apples
Ingredients
1 cup whole milk
2 1/2 tsp unflavored gelatin
3 cups heavy cream
1 piece vanilla bean (2 inches long) or 2 tsp vanilla extract
6 tbs sugar
1 apple
2 cups apple cider
2 tbs honey
Pour milk into a small saucepan and sprinkle surface with gelatin. Set aside for 10 minutes to let gelatin hydrate. Scrape the vanilla bean into the cream (or add vanilla extract). Set eight 4-oz prep bowls or small cups on a baking sheet. Heat the milk mixture over high heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture reaches 135 degrees. Remove from heat, slowly add sugar while stirring, until dissolved. While stirring, slowly pour the cream and vanilla mixture into the warm milk and sugar. Place the container with the resulting mix into an ice bath and slowly stir for about five minutes, until the mixture reaches 60 degrees. Strain into a measuring cup and evenly distribute among small bowls. Cover with plastic, being careful not to touch the surface of the cream. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours. Peel and dice apple into 1/4 inch cubes. Bring cider to a simmer, stir in honey, and reduce until about 1/2 cup of liquid remains. While still hot, pour over apples, let stand for 10 minutes as apples soften, and refrigerate until cold. Dip cups of panna cotta in hot water for 3 seconds, loosen sides with a paring knife, turn upside down, and place in center of plate. Place 1-2 tablespoons of apple mixture on top, surround with sauce, and serve.
Roasted Beet and Walnut Salad
Photo: Chris Casella
Roasted Beet and Walnut Salad
Ingredients
1 lb red, golden, or mixed beets
1 cup green beans
1/2 cup walnuts
1 tsp sherry vinegar
1 tsp walnut oil
2 tbs extra virgin olive oil
Salt
Roast beets whole and unpeeled at 325 degrees for about one hour, until they are fork-tender. Set aside and chill completely. Blanch green beans in boiling, salted water (about like ocean water) for 1-1 1/2 minutes. Strain and place green beans in ice cold water until completely chilled. Roast walnuts on a cookie sheet at 225 degrees for about 45 minutes, until golden brown. Place sherry vinegar, walnut oil, olive oil, a pinch of salt, and 1 tablespoon warm water in a container with a lid. Peel beets (use your hands, but wear gloves!), removing only the tough outer layer. Dice into 1/2 inch cubes. Place beans in mixing bowl with beets and roasted walnuts. Vigorously shake container of vinaigrette and dress salad to taste.
Originally Published: March 1, 2010
