Covert Class
By The Secret Diner |
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The saying "you can't judge a book by its cover" holds true in this example. Flanked by a dive bar and a liquor store, Sage American Bistro sits unpretentiously along a stretch of North High Street more known for brutal construction delays than sophisticated dining. The restaurant is the vision of head chef William Glover, who cut his teeth at several area country clubs before setting out on his own. Sage, which is named after Glover's daughter, is also managed by long time family friend Ed Shepherd.
ATOMSPHERE - Outside the bustle of buses and Marlboro-smoking students sits a "cool" restaurant that doesn't try too hard to be... cool. The interior of Sage is a collection of modern art, high ceilings, and a blend of midtown chic and neighborhood comfort. The patrons, a collection of customers ranging from young hipsters to 60-somethings, are packed into the smallish space seemingly every night of the week. The music is perfect: not too loud, not too soft. Sage lets its customers create the ambiance, and they pull it off with ease.
SERVICE - Sage succeeds in service for several reasons. The limited menu allows servers to have detailed knowledge of all dishes, which makes their recommendations all the more valuable. This also means the kitchen can operate more efficiently, and what it lacks in space is made up for with delivery. On all three visits, our appetizers and entrees were spaced out perfectly. The maitre'd (Shepherd) is always visible, mixing table visits and greeting customers seamlessly.
Duck comfit with scallops
Photo: Chris Casella
FOOD - Sage shines brightest with its food. The chef's practice of changing the menu every 90 days encourages patrons to explore the menu without it becoming too monotonous. There are generally only 8-10 entrees on the menu at any given time, so the ability to keep things interesting certainly appeases Sage's regulars. Despite the "white tablecloth" reputation, Chef Glover isn't afraid to put out dishes that may be considered ordinary by some - but don't be fooled. The Chicken & Dumplings is simply the best I've ever had. The chicken is sweet yet crisp, and the soft texture of the dumplings match perfectly. A link of delicious pheasant sausage sitting in a light broth accompanies this already amazing entree.
Dishes such as Duck Comfit with Scallops occupy the other end of the spectrum. The duck is perfectly tender, and the accompanying peach-rosemary jam brings out all of the rich flavor of the poultry. The scallops (which were ordered on two of our three visits) were cooked perfectly, as an appetizer with a spicy tomato jam, and as a side with a hint of cocoa. Chef Glover's use of jams, berries, and other sweet/tart combinations enhances all the flavors in their savory pork, duck, and chicken dishes.
A truly wonderful dining experience should encompass excellent food, service, and ambiance. Sage Bistro has exhibited its ability to exceed expectations on a consistent basis. Congratulations to Chef Glover and the entire Sage Bistro staff for achieving our very first Secret Diner Award.
Sage American Bistro
2653 N High St.
(614) 267-SAGE
www.sageamericanbistro.com
Score: 39
Food - 13
Service - 13
Atmosphere - 13
Columbus is full of amazing eateries. From neighborhood delicatessens to high-end steakhouses, our city has hundreds of choices. (614) Magazine is proud to introduce its Secret Diner Award.
This award is not given out as a "Best Of"; rather, it seeks to recognize restaurants that are consistently hitting the mark. Restaurants are not selected based on a price point, and to ensure that a recipient has demonstrated excellence in all areas, the Secret Diner will visit each establishment a minimum of three times.
Restaruants will be graded in three categories: Food, Service, & Atmosphere, each scored from 1-5 points over three visits, with a possible total of 45. Restaurants achieving 38 points or above qualify for the award.
The award will not be given out every month, but only when a restaurant has exceeded the grade.
Bon Appetit,
The Secret Diner
Originally Published: January 1, 2010
