
Where’s The Beef?
A connoisseur’s guide to the best steaks in Columbus
By Kelley Bell
Published January 17, 2012
When you are craving a good steak – and I don’t mean just any old chunk of char-crusted cow hide, but a really great, better-than-sex, melt-in-your-mouth piece of Prime – where do you go? Food City uncovered the best beef in town with a whirlwind carnivore tour.
We scoured the city and gave each chef a mission: to showcase the finest steak on his or her menu. We found that our dear old C-bus hosts a wealth of culinary excellence that could rival any major metropolis.
Choosing a single winner is like evaluating fine wine. When you learn the art of discerning a truly excellent vintage, “favorite” becomes a matter of personal taste based on a multitude of characteristics. In the steak world, these factors include the type of beef, where it was raised, how it was fed, the aging process, cooking technique and flavor-enhancing garnishments. USDA Prime is a certification reserved for only the top two percent of beef in the country, and separates these steaks from the lower grades of Choice and Select.
Below is a capital city checklist for the discerning steak conquistador. As 2012 gets rolling, put this checklist on your refrigerator, hit the town and taste each one for yourself. Take note of the variety, nuance and culinary excellence these blue ribbon winners offer, and you will be well on your way to becoming a world-class carnivore..
Best Classic Chops
If you are looking for a classic chop and want the best of the best, head to a steakhouse that serves Prime beef cooked in a super high-temperature broiler. Four area restaurants are known for this preparation technique and lead our list: Hyde Park, Ruth’s Chris, Smith & Wollensky and The Top.
Hyde Park
Chef Mark Reineck explained to us that Hyde Park offers both wet- and dry-aged steaks, and that their downtown location features a special cut of Kobe beef known as American Wagyu, which is a crossbreed of the Japanese Wagyu and the American Black Angus. The cattle are fed a special diet, and are sometimes even pampered by massage to remove lactic acid from their muscles. This beef is globally prized for its unique marbling characteristics, tenderness and juicy flavor. Wagyu beef contains a higher percentage of omega 3 and omega 6 fatty acids than any other type of beef on the market. Visit Hyde Park and compare their classic dry-aged steak with the Wagyu. Note the richness and deep beefy flavor of the dry aging process in comparison to the juicy delicacy of the Wagyu. The difference is prominent, and the dining experience is heaven on a plate. We also recommend pairing this feast with of bottle of Hyde Park’s private label wine, designed specifically to enhance the flavor of the meat. Regional manager and level one wine sommelier Penny Myers explained, “When you dine on steak, the first bite has that intense ‘wow’ factor, but as you continue to eat, fat develops on your taste buds and dulls your ability to experience the full flavor of the beef. The alcohols and acids in our wines cleanse the palate, allowing each bite to be as incredible as the first.”
Ruth’s Chris Steak House
Chef Ed Weiss of Ruth’s Chris takes pride in the “sizzle” factor of their wet-aged 16 oz. USDA Prime bone-in fillet – as well he should. This is the classic steak-lovers steak. It boasts that huge full-bodied flavor enhanced by the marrow of the bone. The steak is served simply with melted butter and parsley. “We don’t have to dress it up in any other way,” Chef Weiss said. “Ruth’s Chris has special patented broilers that cook the steak at 1800 degrees, which flash sears the outside of the steak and locks in the juices. Most grills only heat to about 500 degrees.” The plates are heated to keep the steak warm and the butter actually sizzles as the meal is being served.
All the chefs and managers of Ruth’s Chris take this level of excellence even one step further: employees are sent out to see the cattle, meet the ranchers and tour the stock yards. “Our cattle are pampered and allowed to rest and relax to prevent stress,” Weiss explained. “We have relationships with our ranchers and are involved in the process from beginning to end. If cattle are stressed, you will taste it in the meat. We like happy cows.”
Smith & Wollensky
Executive Chef Jim Bline offered a behind-the-scenes tour of the restaurant’s in-house dry-aging facility. “We dry-age and butcher everything on site. That is one of our claims to fame.” When the meat comes in, it’s inspected, dated and stored for at least 28 days in light humidity and in a temperature-controlled room. The meat loses about a pound of moisture per week, breaking down the muscle tissue to produce that tender, flavorful punch unique to dry-aged beef. A master butcher custom cuts each piece when the aging process is complete, and then it is only steps away from the final journey to mouthwatering mastery in their double stack 1800-degree broiler. Be sure to complement this meal with a bottle of Smith & Wollensky Private Reserve wine, a special Napa Valley cuv’ee with dark undertones and shades of oak.
The Top Steak House
The Top Steak House has been in business since 1955, and Chef Denver says their 1500-degree broiler is “almost as old as the building itself and has a seasoning all its own, kind of like a good cast iron skillet.” The Top features a 24 oz. Prime bone-in rib eye topped with blue cheese and a 40-day dry-aged Kansas City strip steak with roasted garlic butter and onions. The aging process combined with their special seasonings and broiler highlight the classic “nutty” flavor of a quality Prime dry-aged steak. The Top also has its own garden right here in town where their chefs gather fresh produce, and they are proud to report they use Ohio cheeses and beef from a Columbus distributor.
Best Designer Steaks
Martini Modern Italian
Located on High Street across from the Convention Center, Martini Modern Italian offers a first class Manhattan-style dining experience. Executive Chef Peter Chapman serves a very tender filet topped with caminzola cheese, cream and a light pure reduction demi-glaze. The glaze and cream blend deliciously with the steak flavor for a real uptown treat.
Best Use of Local and Organic Products
Latitude 41
Chef Dave MacLennan creates a culinary masterpiece with his presentation of all-natural beef tenderloin and their signature Hanger Steak. “The tenderloin comes from our ‘Never-Never’ program, which means the cattle have never been exposed to any antibiotics, hormones or steroids of any kind.” The Hanger Steak is intensely flavorful because the cut hangs near the diaphragm, thyroid and kidneys of the cow, adding undertones of iron-rich organ flavor. It is marinated in kimchi and apple cider, then slow cooked and tenderized. This divine delectable is served with a sweet potato puree and cranberry tar-tar, which add the perfect finish to this unique and flavorful favorite.
The Refectory
The steaks at The Refectory are world class, but what makes this dining experience extra special is the building itself. Rich with Ohio history, The Refectory strives to serve fresh, organic, Ohio-made products with all their signature steaks. Their wine list is excellent, as well.
Best Value
J. Alexander’s
Manager David Short presented their signature 14 oz. New York strip steak, available with several different toppings. Their beef is grain-fed, hormone-free certified Angus (a subcategory grade that falls between the upper three tiers of USDA Choice and Prime). The steak comes to the table with the side dishes included in the price, presenting a very good value and a fine dining experience.
J. Gilbert’s
Tailored for the business traveler, J. Gilbert’s serves a hearty Prime steak with a full complement of side dishes at an affordable price. This house of fine steak and seafood is known as one of Worthington’s best kept secrets. For fine dining on a budget, you can’t do better than this.
Lindey’s
Lindey’s offers a good value and a great location for the urban steak lover with their Angus beef center barrel cut filet. This cut is an upper tier Choice grade steak. Lindey’s goes one step further by using the center barrel cut. The filet is topped with melted gorgonzola cheese, herb butter and browned breadcrumbs, served with a light demi-glaze and two side dishes. It’s a steak close enough to Prime to fool even the experts, and leaves enough money in your wallet for a good glass of wine to top off your meal.
Matt the Miller’s Tavern
Chef Jordan rolled out a beef tenderloin filet Oscar topped with lump crab meat and a lemon cream sauce. This steak is melt-in-your-mouth tender, with just the right amount of char. The price point and quality are on par with Lindey’s for those looking for a good steak in Grandview or the Muirfield area.



Comments
illegalsecy @ 01/23/2012 09:42 am
BLC @ 01/23/2012 10:00 am
GCW @ 01/23/2012 10:08 am
Patti @ 01/23/2012 10:22 am
Brian Dangerous @ 01/24/2012 03:05 pm
snubbed @ 01/24/2012 04:27 pm
Kelley Bell @ 01/25/2012 05:57 am
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