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(Credit: Chris Casella)

Soup’s On!

Three bowlfuls to warm up your winter

By Sarah Fisher

Published January 17, 2012

As the temperature outside nears the bitterly cold and gray winter Columbus has become accustomed to, appetites and moods all over Central Ohio are beginning to crave that warm, soothing, inexpensive meal in a bowl. Whether it’s a quick lunch, a light dinner or just a way to revive after being outside, soup is a key cog in your winter engine. Several spots around town are serving up delightfully comforting bowls to awaken your taste buds from hibernation.

Lenticchie Stew

Attached to the Shadowbox Live theater in the Brewery District is the unassuming Backstage Bistro. Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, the bistro boasts a bountiful menu filled with salads, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas. The Lenticchie Stew is one of the bistro’s signature offerings – a seemingly simple combination of flavors sure to challenge your appetite.

This cozy rustic dish will heat up your palate, providing a satisfying warmth. Dried red chilies expand the depth of the broth’s flavor, adding spicy notes to the savory base. Extra virgin olive oil made from kalamata olives imparts a salty, vinegary tang that serves to highlight the distinct ingredients. The touch of acidity from the vinegar brightens each flavor individually while pleasantly melding the varied tastes.

The famous Italian cheese Parmigiano Reggiano adds a creamy layer as it melts into the broth. Bacon rounds out the symphony of flavors, providing a uniquely smoky accent.

The chef at the Backstage Bistro has earned a standing ovation with this clever concoction, combining hints of salty, spicy, savory and smoky all in the same bowl. Entertain your taste buds with this quick, delicious and delightfully inexpensive way to break the winter chill.

Backstage Bistro
503 S Front St.
(614) 416-7625
www.sbxbackstagebistro.com

Gumbo by Gallo’s

Long known as a staple of New Orleans’ Creole cuisine, gumbo has won the heart (and stomach) of Tom Gallo, chef/owner of Gallo’s Kitchen. The ability to utilize quality ingredients and take the time to develop the unique flavors to create an amazing dish embodies Gallo’s passion for cooking. “Let the stars be stars,” says Gallo as he prepares each element of the soup in a way that preserves the distinct taste characteristics.

Gumbo is a four-hour process, and Gallo makes about six gallons at a time. “I’m proud of it . . . One bite, and it’s all worth it.”

For those new to gumbo, one of the key components is the roux. Gallo’s version uses peanut oil and flour. The roux is a rich, caramel color, which adds body and thickness to the soup. “Everybody has their own gumbo. It’s like asking someone how they do their red sauce,” explained Gallo.

The New Orleans’ culinary trinity – celery, onion and green bell pepper – are the first in the pot. Next, Gallo adds crushed tomatoes to the soup. The bulk of the flavor comes from the gumbo’s three main components: ham stock, chicken and sausage. Using chicken stock and smoked ham shanks, Gallo creates a ham stock that provides a wonderfully lively smokiness. Instead of adding the chicken straight into the soup, Gallo first seasons each piece of chicken, dredges it in flour and fries it to sear in the flavor.

To top it off, chunks of Andouille sausage and ham are baked in the oven to create a rich, caramelized flavor. This step brings out the sugars in the meat, creating an additional depth. The complexities of these components eliminate the need for added spices. “I don’t add anything else, no hot sauce,” said the chef.

As the Creole flavors warm your palate, you’ll feel far away from the wintry mix in Columbus. Gallo strives to showcase the natural goodness of quality cooking with his hearty recipe. “Let the main ingredients stay the course,” he advises. “Our gumbo is our best example of that.”

Gallo’s Kitchen & Bar
2820 Nottingham Rd.
(614) 754-8176
www.gallosfoodgroup.com

Tomato Alphabet Soup

If you’re looking for something familiar and nostalgically comforting, a trip to Milestone 229 for some Tomato Alphabet Soup is just what the doctor ordered. The waterfront eatery features stunning architectural elements, and to make the spot even more appealing during the frigid weather, they graciously offer complimentary valet parking during lunch. With a vibe all its own, the restaurant has gained praise for its emphasis on fresh, seasonal and local ingredients.

In true 229 fashion, they have elevated another American standard to new culinary heights. Do not mistake the Tomato Alphabet Soup for the bland, watery canned tomato soup you ate as a kid. The chef at Milestone raises the bar by presenting a rich tomato broth full of vegetables. The texture of the broth is pleasing on the tongue before warming the rest of your body.

The hearty vegetables add flavor to the savory broth. While this soup is comforting in a way only a childhood favorite could be, the endearing ABC noodles take it over the top. Adding body to the soup, the noodles impart a playful personality to the bowl. The Tomato Alphabet Soup is a prime example of Milestone 229’s offerings – classic comfort dishes reinvented with an approachable gourmet twist.

Milestone 229
229 Civic Center Dr.
(614) 427-0276
www.milestone229.com

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