Landon Proctor

Let’s say you want to put together the most versatile case of wine you can imagine. A dozen epic wines that rise to as many different occasions as possible – the Swiss army knife of fine booze, as it were.

This exercise isn’t about picking the most expensive or desirable wines that come to mind. Rather, if you simply desire to have a respectable collection of wine on hand in order to be better prepared for future dinners, or for entertaining company with a wide variety of tastes, consider wines that will give you the most flexibility. Here’s my case of choice.

New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc – A crisp, hot-weather wine, light-bodied and citrus driven. Going the extra mile: Look for something from Marlborough for the particular grapefruit streak so many people enjoy.

German Riesling – If you’re entertaining a crowd, someone’s going to ask for a sweet wine. Rieslings are remarkably versatile with heat and perfect for complementing Thai, Mexican or Indian cuisine. Going the extra mile: Grab a Kabinett, Spatlese or Auslese from the Mosel Valley and you’ll understand.

Pinot Grigio from northern Italy – I contend that you need an Italian white in this case, not quite so fruit-forward as a New World white. Light and mineral focused. Going the extra mile: Anything from the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region.

Chardonnay – If your heart belongs to classic Californian Chard, with its heaping helping of butter, oak and tropical notes, you’re in good company. Full-bodied and lush, these can go great with creamy dishes. Or you can fill this slot with a white Burgundy, rich and concentrated its own way. Going the extra mile: Grab a Village-level or Premier Cru to fully experience what Chardonnay in Burgundy can do.

Merlot/Bordeaux – Merlot must be represented. Just bring out a Bordeaux. Going the extra mile: St. Emilion is a well-respected subregion of Bordeaux known for excellent Merlots.

Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – If someone wants a Cab, Napa is almost certainly the epitome from California. It’s the perfect for pairing with red meat and intensely flavored cuisine. Going the extra mile: 2007 was a great year for the region.

Oregon Pinot Noir or Red Burgundy – At times, a heavy red won’t do and a delicate hand is required: cue the Pinot. Going the extra mile: Again, Village-level or Premier Cru Burgundy will knock off their proverbial socks.

Italian Red Chianti – At times, the only thing that will do is something earthy, old-world and maybe a bit funky. Especially if dinner is a tomato-based dish. Going the extra mile: Chianti Classico for even more concentrated flavors.

Australian Shiraz – Some guests will be in the mood for a soft, low-acid, unassuming red wine to drink without food: something dark and full-bodied without being aggressive or overly assertive. Shiraz tends to fill this niche well and cheaply. Going the extra mile: Barossa Valley Shiraz is quintessentially dark chocolate and big jammy spice. Go big or go home.

Argentine Malbec – Friendly, accessible, low in tannin and easy-going. Going the extra mile: Price often correlates well to quality with Malbec. Spending more gets you more in this category.

Rhone GSM – An extremely versatile blend of Grenache, Shiraz, and Mourvedre. Cotes-du-Rhones are cheap and hard to beat. Going the extra mile: Say it with me: ‘Chateauneuf-du-Pape.’

Spanish Rioja – No wine is more accommodating with food than Rioja. Going the extra mile: Crianza and Reserva wines have been aged longer and have more nuanced and subtle profiles than younger Riojas.

Landon Proctor is (614)’s incredibly talented, ass-kicking and supremely humble wine specialist. Find out more about him at www.landonproctor.com.