By Morgan Landis

Eclectic elegance. That’s the first phrase that formed in my head as I stepped into the new de-NOVO bistro downtown. Though the place had been open only nine days when we visited, I had already caught wind of a positive buzz – and apparently so had everyone else, as the space quickly filled with eager patrons. The jazz music certainly helps attract some attention; a live band plays every Thursday, Friday and Saturday.

The elegance is obvious; shining chandeliers light the path to the back of the restaurant, and the smooth, slender dark wood bar faces an open alcohol display that is delicately lighted and topped by two flatscreen TVs placed high on the walls. The brown booths in front are simple, adorned with a single vase holding a bright bird of paradise flower with smooth, orange petals. A small intimate area to the right of the door serves as a stage.

Large, luxurious paintings line the brick wall that leads from the front entrance into the more secluded back section, called the Tiffany Room. In the back, the elegance is amplified; white tablecloths hang gracefully, surrounded by walls colored with a soft cascade of black and blue highlighted with custom-made paintings. The design is simple, yet striking, and the Tiffany Room is quietly tucked away to provide the perfect setting for enjoying a glass of wine from their ample list.

Sitting in the front of the joint affords a premium view of the jazz performers; and you might also catch a glimpse of the eclectic side of the stylish owner, Yavonne Sarber. With curly blond hair resting on the collar of her long dark fur coat, the interior designer by trade explained her chic yet rustic decorating scheme, featuring large pieces of driftwood in the midst of chandeliers, scattered amongst small pieces of art and sculpture. Individually, the pieces may not look like they belong, but as a whole, the scene takes your breath away.

Beyond the sights and sounds, de-NOVO’s eclectic menu manages to be the star of the show. Sandwiches include the Cuban Pulled Pork or the Bahn Mi ($7-$9), hot and cold small plates vary from shrimp tempura to short ribs ($7-$14), and entrees feature the likes of Roasted Duck or Butternut Squash Ravioli ($10-$30).

The Butter Bibb small plate was beautifully balanced with Bibb lettuce topped with toasted hazel nuts, manchego cheese and a fine herb vinaigrette. The hand-picked cheese plate features delicious Amish blue cheese and Carr Valley bread cheese topped with raspberries.

If the main course selection seems overwhelming, your server will be more than happy to suggest something to suit your tastes. Though the Kobe chorizo burger and the crispy salmon flatbread sandwich looked tempting – or the filet mignon, or the sea bass, or the chicken carbonara – the lamb belly pasta and the lobster truffle mac ’n’ cheese proved to be winning dishes.

The lobster truffle arrived warm, perfectly cooked and loaded with lobster and just enough cheese. Lamb belly pasta provided a uniquely textured flavor adventure; a poached egg perched atop parpardelle pasta, lamb and asparagus lightly tossed in a sherry Dijon cream.

Though the entrees are filling, dessert is certainly not to be missed. The Chocolate Soufflee is served hot and moist, covered in a vanilla bean anglaise that makes it literally melt in your mouth. The Kaluha Stout ice cream is also delectable and could probably rival some other ice creams for the top spot on my list. The Apple Crisp with homemade vanilla star anise ice cream is perfect in its simplicity: warm apples and a simple crisp, set off by a unique licorice accent.

de-NOVO draws in a crowd with the jazz music and elegantly approachable atmosphere, but the stellar menu keeps patrons coming back.

de-NOVO
201 S High St.
(614) 222-8830
www.denovobistro.com