(Credit: Chris Casella)

Though October’s Indian summer may have faded, there are still plenty of reasons to be enthusiastic about the shift in season – pulling sweaters out of the closet, the smell of crisp air and bonfires, football and tailgating, the changing colors of dying leaves, baseball playoffs, Thanksgiving, pumpkins, beer . . . and even pumpkin beer. The onset of cooler weather signals the release of darker beers like barley wines, porters, stouts and the elusive seasonal pumpkin beers and winter warmers. As the temperature drops, slowly sipping a full-bodied dark beer is the perfect way to warm up; these heftier brews often sport greater than 10-percent alcohol content to get your blood flowing.  

Pumpkin ales hold a special place in the hearts of many beer connoisseurs. Most recipes for the autumn elixir have a similar make up. Brewers typically use a majority of 2 Row Pale Malt as the backbone, with a little Munich, cara-pilsner, wheat or biscuit malt to add body and head, and then impart some color and sweetness with a little caramel malt.

The better breweries also add pumpkin puree or freshly cooked pumpkins to the mash to mingle with the grain as it steeps. The recipes are customized with the addition of spices, such as nutmeg, allspice, cinnamon and ginger, and vanilla and brown sugar. The hops tend to be floral or spicy with a low alpha level and not overly bitter. 

Of the vast array of pumpkin beverages in the field, one elixir really takes the prize: Southern Tier’s Pumking. I respect the hell out of this brewery and all that they produce. From the small town of Lakewood, New York, Southern Tier specializes in dessert beers – high alcohol content libations featuring intense flavor. Their offerings include Crème Brulee Stout, Mokah, Jahva, Choklat and, of course, the Pumking. Nothing embodies the feeling and taste of fall like a pint of Pumking fresh from the tap. This craft brew follows the same basic formula as other pumpkin beers – Southern Tier even lists the ingredients on the label – but none of the other gourd-based brews come close to capturing the essence of autumn the way Southern Tier’s does. Folks on online brewing forums have been pulling their hair out for years trying to imitate this beer and no one can seem to figure it out; it’s often claimed that the Pumking label has to be leaving off some secret ingredients. 

The problem with most pumpkin beers is that the flavor is simply that of an amber ale with some spices added, lacking any dynamic feel or taste. The best fall brews have rich flavor and mouthfeel, similar to the way drinking warm apple cider with whiskey and cinnamon makes you feel on a frigid day.

While Southern Tiers’ Pumking tops my list, several other breweries offer respectable seasonal varieties, including Dogfish Head, Weyebacher, Heavy Seas, New Holland and Brooklyn Brewery’s Post Road. Take a sip of these stellar concoctions at local watering holes such as Bodega, KOBO and The St. James Tavern, or pick up a six pack at the Pace High Carryout on High Street at Pacemont Road or Viking Premium Beverages on King Avenue. Make a fitting toast to the falling leaves with your pumpkin brew of choice this season.

The Top of the Harvest
Southern Tier Pumking – A+ on draft, A/A- in bottle
Weyerbacher Imperial Pumpkin Ale – B+
Heavy Seas The Great Pumpkin – B+
Dogfish Head Punkin Ale – B+
Heavy Seas The Greater Pumpkin – B
New Holland Ichabod Pumpkin Ale – B
O’Fallon Pumpkin Ale – B-
Post Road Pumpkin Ale – B-
Shock Top Pumpkin Wheat – B-
Smuttynose Pumpkin Ale – B-
Tommyknocker Small Patch Pumpkin Harvest Ale – C+
Rivertown Brewing Company Pumpkin Ale – C+
Buffalo Bill’s America’s Original Pumpkin Ale – C
Saranac Pumpkin Ale – C